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Most of what is in this care sheet would also apply to other aquatics, like map turtles. For care sheets and other information listed alphabetically, by species, including more than 90 separate species, click on Turtle Information by Species
If you want a list of care sheets which have been ranked by people at this website, there is a link above this topic. If that link isn't working, use this link: http://www.turtletim...id=44&Itemid=23.
A dictionary of turtle-related terms is posted at: http://www.turtletim...om/keywords.htm . Kreeves put together some links for getting started, from information to buying the set-up and the turtle. I have copied his work (with permission) added that as a response, below.
Always check your local law on turtle care and ownership. Here is a thread which links to laws of many of the states of the United States: http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.ph...t=0#entry385118 Here is a thread which discusses the law of the State of New Jersey in the United States of America: http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.ph...t=0#entry358456
The laws of Singapore, for example, are much tougher. Before getting an illegal turtle, consider the hearteache you and the turtle will suffer if it gets sick and you need a veteranarian. You will have to choose between your pet's life and your own safety and comfort.
How to pick up and handle your turtle: http://www.matts-turtles.org/hold.html
OVERVIEW FOR WELL NEW TURTLES (Sliders, Painted Turtles, and Cooters) (If your turtle is sick check: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=12917 ); Florida Snappers have their own care thread: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=29415 with more links in the link collection.
First, very generally: These are all water turtles which bask. That means they need enough water to swim around in, and an area they can easily climb up on to dry themselves off completely and absorb sunlight, or a reasonable facsimile which includes both UVA and UVB light. For a discussion of Housing the Red Eared Slider, (which pretty much applies to cooters, painted turtles, maps, and other water turtles which swim well and bask), http://www.turtletim...showtopic=39056. For a good discussion of basking, click on http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.ph...mp;#entry345811. The rule of thumb this forum has adopted for how much water is needed is 10 gallons per inch of turtle, but many others would say that is not enough. Female turtles need to lay eggs or they will die. Waterland Tubs provide a place for this. The manufacturer's website home page is http://www.waterlandtubs.com. The Turtle Times thread on this subject, which as many useful links, is http://www.turtletim...showtopic=16200 . More general information on breeding, egg-laying and incubation can be found by checking the care sheet topic, Care Sheet Links Alphabetical by Common Name http://www.turtletim...showtopic=18815, and the breeding and incubation forum, http://www.turtletim...hp?showforum=16 There are forums devoted to assorted set-ups. Click the All Forums link, above, and then on the Forum on the type of set-up you are interested in. Here is a thread with a lot of set-ups: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=17578. Two topics which give information about handling plexiglass to build stuff for your turtle are: http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.ph...=cut+plexiglass and http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/index.ph...;hl=plexi+glass. However, I had more success drilling holes in it than reported in the second thread.
Secondhand tanks are readily available at discount. of course, you must completely clean them with disinfecting chemicals, like bleach, then wash them out so no trace of the chemical remains. Sources include local pennysavers, yard, rummage, garage, and tag sales, secondhand stores (I've seen 20-40 gallon tanks at the Salvation Army Store for less than the price of a new 10 gallon tank). Also, rubbermaids are available in large sizes. They are cheap, but fragile. If you go this route, you will probably have to replace the tank pretty frequently... about once a year.
Here is another take on tank size: http://members.aol.c...s/Roulette.html
Second, The temperatures for turtles which are not sick are usually a little lower than those for sick turtles. Well turtles need Water 72-75 degrees, basking area 82-85 degrees. Use a thermometer, and measure the temperatures. My turtle didn't have a water heater at all until he got sick when he was 43. On the other hand, he always got a full day of real sunlight. Timmy is a cooter I got in December of 1959.
Third, find a turtle vet in your area, so you don't have to scrounge around in the event of an emergency. Our vet link is http://www.turtletim...?showtopic=4964, which includes numerous recommendations of people from this website PLUS links to a number of other websites with turtle (herp) vet lists. It is not a bad idea to have new turtles checked out. Sometimes they have parasites or infections which can be treated. Usually new turtles are kept in quarantine before mixing with older pet turtles, to prevent infection or infestation of all. Here is a story of what can happen if you fail to quarantine: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=14110 . In this case, both turtle seem likely to survive. That is not always the case.
When bringing a turtle to a vet for a check-up, it's usually good to bring two stool samples, taken 24-48 hours apart, shortly before the date of the visit. (refrigerate them). A quarantine involves a vet visit with samples, if clean, wait three months then another visit. If still clean, the turtles can be mixed.
Fourth, What to Feed? These turtles must be fed in the water, preferably in a special feeding tank. Turtles should be kept away from fat and starch. They will eat less vegetables as babies than as adults, and need more calcium as babies, but calcium is a consistant concern throughout their lives. I always use frozen smelts, other small boney bait fish, egg whites, and vegetables. Live guppies and minnows (rosy reds) are also good. I have tried using Reptimin and making a mosse out of boiled fish bones and egg whites or whole eggs. When feeding your turtle, include vitamin and mineral supplements. I recommend those sold by pet stores for herps. Baby RES won't eat veggies, but your RES grow, they will accept veggies. Here is a thread on feeding Red Eared Sliders: Feeding the Red Eared Slider. Other species will accept fruits and veggies earlier in life. You might try floating a collard green leaf in their main tank between feedings or calcium-rich duckweed which remains alive in the tank until eaten so it won't go bad. (What is duckweed? See Duckweed ). Dandelion greens are also good food. (See Dandelion greens) Collard greens, dandelion greens, and duckweed are all loaded with the type of nutrition that will help them grow into happy and heathy turtles. For more good nutritional foods read: nutrientanalysis edible plants . Fresh Water plants: pond plants . Here is a diet guide for California Desert Tortoises which might be useful for water turtles because of the nutritional information: http://www.tortoise....al/tntdiet.html and for plants that poison read http://www.chelonia....sthatpoison.htm and http://www.tortoise....al/poisonp.html . Turtles that depend on artificial sources of light need reptile vitamins, which include vitamin D3, not included in human supplements. Turtles with natural sunlight can be given human vitamin supplements. Turtles also eat insects. A lot of people rely on turtle foods, such as Reptimin and Wardley's Turtle Food, but fresh veggies should be added to the diet, even if you rely on ballanced turtle foods. Here is a wonderful thread which evaluates the major brands of turtlefood: Battle of the brands Concerning live insects, this discussion of food for reptiles from a herp vet group contains a warning worthy of consideration: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.p...;A=1236&S=4. Please note especially that this is for reptiles GENERALLY, turtles NEED fruit and veggies.
Vitamin D is needed for turtles to absorb calcium, as is UV light. For more, see http://www.healthyta...-d-poster-1.htm http://www.healthyta...-1/v1-fig-3.htm http://www.nutritionfarm.com/focus/Vitamin...s/vitamin_D.htm and
live fish in the same tank as turtles, unless roughly as big as the turtles or bigger, will generally become food for the turtles when the turtles decide to try biting them. Sometimes it takes a year, or even more. But Turtles + Fish = Fed Turtles.
This link includes a list of edible weeds, WITH PHOTOGRAPHS: (click on each weed name!!) http://pic6.piczo.co...g=14141051&cr=6
Here is a discussion of how water turtles differentiate by species: http://www.turtlepud...turtlefood.html
Here is the Turtletimes Forum for dietary concerns: http://www.turtletim...hp?showforum=17.
Fifth, feed the turtles in a separate smaller tank, it will keep your main tank cleaner. Cooters, Sliders, and painted turtle cannot eat outside of water.
Sixth, your turtles need their sleep. If there is light, noise, or a lot of movement near their tank after their day is over, get them a cloth cover to give them the darkness they need for solid sleep. In summer, light should be on for at least 14 hours, winter, it should be dark for at least 14 hours. More light time encourages eating.
Seventh, Lighting: Turtles need warth, visible, and UV light, both UVA and UVB. make sure the UV light you have is an adequate one. There are some lights which give some UV, but not enough. ZooMed Reptisun 10.0, 8.0, or 5.0 (higher numbers are better) and Mystic High Performance Fluorescent Lights provide UV (and ordinary edison bulb can then give warmth) and certain reptile mercury vapor lamps are good. Most others should be supplemented with regular outings in the yard in direct sunlight, but ONLY if the turtle can get out of the sun AND has a cool place or water to retreat into. Direct sunlight can overheat the turtle and kill him or her. You might find these links useful: The Ultimate UVB Topic;
Will UVA/UVB Light go through a thick glass window For specific information on specific bulbs: http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html ; http://home.comcast.net/%7Eholachapulin/Re...searchmain.html. To test the UV output of the bulb you have look at this thread, which leads to both UV meters and to other people's test results on a variety of bulbs: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=18237
A few more facts. UV light does not penitrate most window glass. Bulbs should NOT be put over a glass cover, and while a tank which is partly in a sunny window (and partly in cool shade) is nice, for the natural UV from sunlight to do it's work, the window can be blocked by a screen, but not a glass window. The sun is very strong and very hot. It's also what your turtle was made to sit in. However, a turtle which has been indoors cannot suddenly endure hours in the sun. In all cases, if a turtle is to be given sunlight, the turtle MUST AT THE SAME TIME be given a place to get out of the sun and cool off. It's good to have water for many species of turtle to retreat into, although this is species specific... some are better off having a place to dig into the soil.
Eighth: Cleanliness: Nothing wrong with regular water changes to keep your turtles home clean, especially if you rinse out the tank each time. A filter will permit you to do it less often, provided you ALSO clean out the filter when you then clean the tank. For filter suggestions, read The Ultimate Filter Topic: http://www.turtletim...?showtopic=3779
Ninth: Travel: Whether down the block, to a local vet, or long distance for a move, you may have to move your turtle. Keep in mind that if he is frozen, unless he is a northern painted turtle, he will die, and cold weather can shut off his immune system and kill him indirectly. You have to provide him with protection against the weather, and against being knocked around. If you place a water turtle in a box or basket, on a moist, warm towel, and cover him with a dark towel, held in place by a cover or just by you until he settles down and sleeps, he can travel while asleep and wake up unafraid and refreshed. You will have to keep him warm, even if asleep, if it is cold outside. For long distance travel, read: http://www.1happytur.../sliderlife.htm ; For shipping people recommend DHL and Aireborne Express, NOT the USPS or American Express. Another view on transporting a turtle: http://www.matts-turtles.org/hold.html
Tenth, Hibernation. Not every species of turtle hibernates. If you try to hibernate a species of turtle which does not hibernate, you will kill them. It is imperitive that you do significant and through reseach into the hibernation needs of any species before hibernating them. Most people do not recommend hibernating hatchlings in the first year, without regard to species. If they are a species that ordinarily hibernates, and the turtle is in excellent health, hibernation does two good things if done properly: 1) A study in one case showed it substanially extends the life of the turtle, in that cases from an average of 15 years to over 35. If I find that study again I will post the link. 2) It gives you, the owner, a break and respite for a few months, so both you and your pet get a fresh start in the spring.
Eleventh I found eggs in my enclosure!!! How to I care for them??? Here are some guides:
http://www.chelonia....g_eggs_DMS_.htm
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/Emergency...0Techniques.htm
Twelfth, and most important, Read. Read care sheets. The link on top will bring you to the care sheet section of this website, and I have some listed below. Read books. There are at least TWO books written about Red Eared Sliders (“RES”). If you have a RES, read at least one of them, preferably both. No book is a bible, but it will give you an overview. Also good, but out of print: Cooters, Sliders, and Painted Turtles. There are some book reviews on this website. For more recommendations on books, try http://www.turtletim...showtopic=15042
I hope you and your turtles have a long and happy association as pets and owner. For a reference page on the growth and sexing of Red Eared Sliders, try http://www.PicOlio.c...-Growth-Sex.php
http://www.PicOlio.c...xingTurtles.php
For sexing of other species try http://www.chelonia....termination.htm
For a video of the 'mating dance', or, as I prefer it, turtle kissing: http://www.turtletim...showtopic=37415
This post has been edited by BarbReader: 03 January 2007 - 01:31 AM
]We have a 10 gallon tank I can fix up. Any replies or links to web sites on how to set it up would be appreciated. We need to get this turtle fixed up
