13 replies to this topic

[Tyler M.]

Ok everyone we are going to try something new, where going to test your ability to dig and find and reply to the Question of the Week (QOTW).

The goal is to ask the question of the week (QOTW) and see what everyone can dig up to answer the question.

You can draw on personal experience, find topics already in the forums, link to topics on other forums, refer us to books, point to pages on other websites, etc... even include your own pictures. Oh and don't forget YouTube or your own videos... let really have at this idea.

I am hoping that we are able to really put the question to bed, and then down the road we will build an article or formal response with the help of our very own Turtle Times community...

So let have fun and see what happens with it.

Here is the question:

Week 01 - My hatchling is not eating. Any suggestions?

[Tyler M.]

Okay, first bump in the road. You can't help if you can't reply. It looks like this forum was set to not allow replies.

You can reply now, hopefully

[animal kingdom2]

I actually have 6 hatchlings that are just over 3 months old.  None of them eat every day, I'm lucky to get them to eat weekly.  My answer to this question:
Hatchlings actually do not need to eat as often as adult turtles.  For several months after hatching, they receive nutrients from their yolk sac.  Do keep offering a variety of fresh food (veggies) and small bugs/worms several times a week.  Set a routine for them: same time, and set them up in a separate feeding container.  They will soon learn this is where they get to eat.  Always keep fresh water, as even if they do not need to eat as often as adults, they DO need to stay hydrated.  Soak regularly and keep a shallow dish of water available at all times.

If your hatchling was previously eating and suddenly has stopped, review what changes may have happened recently.  Tempuratures, lighting, new container or substrate, adding another turtle, changing the food - these and more can all affect the behavior of hatchlings.  Do be sure to check that the turtle is not in any distress or have any obvious health issues: bubbling from the nose or mouth, eyes are close or swollen, or other noticable injuries - these require a vet visit to determine the cause.

(phew - hope this helps get others started on the first topic!)

[Tyler M.]

Thanks that's a great start.

[Xavier]

animal kingdom2, on 05 January 2010 - 08:08 PM, said:

I actually have 6 hatchlings that are just over 3 months old.  None of them eat every day, I'm lucky to get them to eat weekly.  My answer to this question:
Hatchlings actually do not need to eat as often as adult turtles.  For several months after hatching, they receive nutrients from their yolk sac.  Do keep offering a variety of fresh food (veggies) and small bugs/worms several times a week.  Set a routine for them: same time, and set them up in a separate feeding container.  They will soon learn this is where they get to eat.  Always keep fresh water, as even if they do not need to eat as often as adults, they DO need to stay hydrated.  Soak regularly and keep a shallow dish of water available at all times.

If your hatchling was previously eating and suddenly has stopped, review what changes may have happened recently.  Tempuratures, lighting, new container or substrate, adding another turtle, changing the food - these and more can all affect the behavior of hatchlings.  Do be sure to check that the turtle is not in any distress or have any obvious health issues: bubbling from the nose or mouth, eyes are close or swollen, or other noticable injuries - these require a vet visit to determine the cause.

(phew - hope this helps get others started on the first topic!)

Can't say I agree with this. A hatchlings yolk only provides food for a few days it’s actually completely absorbed into the turtles body before they leave the egg. Hatchling turtles will not have a built up fat reserve like adults which when healthy could go several weeks or more without eating. Typical recommendation is to feed hatchlings daily they should do fine feeding every other day as well yet I'd not advise on anything less.

Turtles like all reptiles have a built in instinct to eat at every opportunity. In the wild they wouldn't know when their next meal is. Its often more of an issue of feeding captive turtles too much food. If you having issues with your turtles to take food regularly maybe it’s a husbandry issue. Are you providing adequate ambient temperature, basking temperature, UVA & UVB, correct diet. The turtle/s should also feel comfortable in their enclosure and not stressed by external factors such as dogs, cats or other tank inhabitants which maybe acting aggressively to them.

[Tyler M.]

It looks like we have an issue with thoughts on the egg yoke and duration that it provides nutrition for the hatchling.

It also looks like the feeding time table is in question a little bit as well. I got that I should try to feed daily, but expect them to eat every other day or at least weekly.

Good stuff

It looks like we have an issue with thoughts on the egg yoke and duration that it provides nutrition for the hatchling.

It also looks like the feeding time table is in question a little bit as well. I got that I should try to feed daily, but expect them to eat every other day or at least weekly.

Good stuff!

Can anyone find some supporting articles, links, or have other thoughts... let's get it on.

[BoxTurtleLover]

From years of experience...for Eastern, Three-Toed and Gulf Coast Box Turtle hatchlings...

Hatchlings are obtained at various ages/sizes during the first year before they become juveniles and can be treated as adults.  I will start with feeding a hatchling after the yolk sac is absorbed.

Hatchling box turtles should be fed/watered every day during their first year.  Do not let them dry out.  They become dehydrated very quickly in a captive environment.  A hatchling usually at first is not interested in food as the yolk sac has provided it's nutrients for maybe several days or so after hatching and while in the egg.  Once the yolk sac is fully absorbed, start providing food/water to the hatchling daily.  First let the hatchling soak in shallow warm water then remove the hatchling from the water and place it in an enclosure for feeding (flat surface) and provide in front of it small moving pieces of earthworm or tiny crickets.  You can also leave the hatchling in warm shallow water and put the worms in the water. Baby earthworms that you find under your garden pots or under rocks in your garden are fabulous to use with hatchlings.  It is the movement/wiggling of the worms that stimulates the hatchling.  At first they may act stunned or uninterested but keep doing this on a daily basis and the majority will show interest and eventually grab at a worm or insect.  Live food is the staple of their first year of life as they spend it mostly hiding in grasses, mulch, deep moss, etc. in the wild.  Worms and various insects are abundant in that environment.  When the turtle starts nipping at and eating the live food, you can offer one of the hatchling aquatic turtle pellets; most like soaked Reptamin Mini-pellets.  I provide that or soaked Omega-One Juvenile pellets for my hatchlings.  Both are good.  Zoo-Med also has a hatchling formula which are very tiny pellets.  Soak and put on the dry flat surface when feeding or let float on the shallow water.  A few little krill or dried tiny shrimps once or so a week adds some excitement and protein and my hatchlings love those.  Feed those sparingly.

If you obtain a hatchling that is a few months old and will not eat, try the above measures -  let it soak in shallow, warmish water and put the wiggly baby worms/segments in the water and also put in soft, soaked pellets mentioned above or a similar brand for hatchlings and do it on a daily basis.  Healthy hatchlings will eventually go after one or the other.  Patience is sometimes needed as nothing realy happens overnight with a new turtle.

Make sure your hatchling is kept in a proper environment that will stimulate its appetite (proper lighting, warmth and substrate for digging/hiding).  Hatchlings should not be allowed to dry out for extended periods of time - keep the substrate humid/lightly damp as much as possible - do  not overly wet.

When your hatchling starts eating it can become ravenous and look for more.  Be careful not to overfeed as hatchlings can be come pigs if you let them and overfeeding is easy when you have a baby turtle looking for more.  You do not want the hatchling to grow too quickly as that can result in shell deformities or a shell that grows to quickly resulting in the hatchlings not able to lift its shell and walk properly later on.

These are just some tips to get your hatchling started as to eating if you have  difficulty.  As your hatchling starts growing start adding vegetable and fruit matter for it to check out.  The majority of the time the turtle will start sampling it and then start eating it if it appears at each feeding - it will eventually grow to like fruit/veggies that way. Try to provide a variety (small bits of cantalope, apple, banana, honey dew melon, bits of tomato, etc.).

When your turtle's shell is about two to three inches long (about one year), you can start treating it as an adult and feeding/watering it every other day.

[Northern Terrapins]

First off, let's understand what kind of hatchling we are talking about (tortoise, turtle)
Then describe the enclosure.
If everything meets the criteria for the care of the specific species,then we can elaborate on why the little guy is refusing to eat.If there is a lack of favorable conditions, first we need to fix that, then take it from there.
In aquatic turtles, i find that krill or dried baby shrimp is the best food to offer. If they ignore this, then most likely there's a medical issue involved (RI).Always remember that hatchling are more carnivorous, so make sure you are offering protein or hatchling pellets, rather than veggies or adult turtle pellets.

[CLAWS]

I think water temperature for hatchlings is critical. A temperature of 78-80F encourages the hatchling to eat, helps digestion and keeps their immune system running on high. These three ingredience helps keep a hatchling healthy.

[CHELID]

BEWARE of bullies! Turtles who are bullied typically don't eat and thus starve and then die. It's happened to me. Ouch!

Edited by Parkeri1313, 09 May 2011 - 07:33 PM.

[Bee_Cosmo]

i'm having the same issue. i have 2 red eared sliders, one is new to the tank and he has stopped eating. im pretty worried about it, i would hate for him to get ill :/

both turtles are only a few months old, so i'm not sure what to do. i have noticed that Bee [the older turtle] has also slowed down her eating, but she has been remaining active in the tank, were as Cosmo [the lil guy] has become sluggish

[Erik]

Water temp is crucial.

[CHELID]

for (ALL) the water turtles I have bread (Kinosternidae) and raised (Chelodina) ... bloodworms, bloodworms, bloodworms, and of course more bloodworms. hatchlings love this stuff and I have had even the pickiest immature small hatchlings FINALLY eat the bloodworms.

[Cheloniphile]

Gotta go with mark on this.  Bloodworms and aquatic hatchlings.  The words go together like spaghetti and meatballs.  Depending on the type you buy, freeze dried bloodworms can have up to 60% protein so even if your fussy little eater only nibbles on a few, he'll get what he needs.  Temps can be important for many species to keep their metabolism up - not necessarily true for wood turtles.  And don't forget UVB.  

Paul (Cheloniphile)