Posted 29 April 2010 - 09:55 AM
Posted 29 April 2010 - 09:29 PM
Buy a filter and UV sterilizer for the water, it keeps mine crystal clear. The turtles make a lot of waste and with out a filter and plants the water will stay green unfortunately.
Posted 11 May 2010 - 04:07 PM
Posted 11 May 2010 - 07:42 PM
Also, as long as the filter and UV sterilizer are meant to handle 1200 gallons it should work right away. I also live in NJ and it takes 2 days to clear the water after I start the filter in the spring time.
Posted 12 August 2011 - 10:54 PM
Posted 10 November 2011 - 12:22 AM
- Tyler M. likes this
Posted 16 November 2011 - 04:07 PM
Algae blooms are usually an indication of nutrient buildup or low-oxygen / high carbon dioxide. Usually it's a combination of both. UV Sterilizers will kill the algae but the dead, decaying plant matter stays in the water providing more food for ongoing algae blooms. Water changes can help with diluting nutrients, but even a 10% water change on a 1200 gallon pond is 120 gallons and the cost in water and sewage bills can add up. Even if you drain to the outdoors your municipality bills sewer utilization based on water utilization so you get whacked anyway. If you can pump from a very nearby stream or pond you might have a good answer.
A couple of biological answers that have helped me immensely are adding freshwater clams to the tank. I'm from the Northeast and the Elliptio compleanata freshwater clam or mussel abounds in local lakes and ponds. Any local kid who swims in a neighborhood pond can pull up dozens in a few minutes. Drop a few dozen of these filter feeders into your pond and let them eat, and eat, and eat. They'll chow down on your free floating green algae. If and when the algae population drops, the clams weaken and your turtles will eat them, leaving behind calcium in the form of empty shells.
You can also shade the pond from sunlight to cut back on blooms. A bush or shade tree to minimize afternoon sun will keep temperatures lower and reduce the sunlight that fuels the photosynthesis process. If adding shrubbery isn't an option, shade the water surface with water plants like water lillies. Better yet - buy or acquire duckweed which absorbs nutrients from the water, reflects back the sunlight hitting the water surface, and serves as food for fish and turtles. Duckweed propagates like a weed (I thought that was funny) and reduces the carbon dioxide while it reduces nutrient buildup. You can even buy it cheaply on eBay which also has sellers dealing in freshwater clams. Duckweed is a good buy on eBay, I think clams are too expensive when you factor in shipping.
So... water changes, filter feeding clams, shade, and duckweed, in combination, might help if not alleviate your problem.
Posted 17 November 2011 - 09:15 AM
For myself, I would not use baking soda as an algaecide. As I understand it, algae growth is reduced by baking soda (NaC03) by increasing the pH of the water volume, increasing the general hardness (GH), and by the sodium content (Na) of the compound. Baking soda generally only raises the alkalinity (KH) or buffering capacity of the water to combat acidity without significantly or permanently raising pH or general hardness (GH). So it binds the nitric acid, aka ntrate, aka plant food, and makes it less "edible" for algae. The ntrate is still there, though, so if the KH drops the nitrate can come back into solution feeding a massive algae bloom.
The rule of thumb I go by is about 1 teaspoon of baking soda to 26.5 gallons of water (2.5 grams to 100 liters) to increase KH by about 1 point. For a 1200 gallon pond that would be 300 grams or 0.67 pounds per degree KH change. I can't speak as to how much you would need to actually reduce algae growth by any significant level.
To raise both general hardness (GH) and alkalinity (KH), I would use calcium carbonate (CaCO3) which is most easily but more slowly done by adding a quantity of crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell in a canister filter separate from your particulate/biological canister filter. 2.5 grams of soluble calcium carbonate per 100 liters would raise GH and KH about 1.5 to 2 points and would impact water chemistry faster than the crushed coral filtering.
I guess this might impact algae growth a little, but it will have a definite and longer term effect on your water, keeping the pH more alkaline which some turtle species might not like. You can’t measure the significance of pH changes as easily as GH and KH because that pH measurement scale we use is logarithmic (math guys, chip in here) – so changes away from a species optimum pH should be VERY gradual – example: ph 5.5 is 10x more acidic than 6.5 which is the number I target for my spotteds and woods. RES and painteds show more tolerance for pH range from a little more acid to more alkaline.
The tendency of our water to become increasingly acidic is due to nitric acid, aka nitrate, which is the product of a successful biological filter reducing ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. It’s also the food for the algae you’re trying to eliminate.
What’s it all mean? I would not look to create any drastic pH changes or add too many external chemicals to control algae in a pond and would, as I said in the previous post, look to biological / environmental controls such as water changes, shade, filter feeders and other plants like duckweed to compete with algae for the nutrients that remain.
Edited by Cheloniphile, 17 November 2011 - 09:29 AM.
- RachelDBT likes this
Posted 28 November 2011 - 03:15 PM
Edited by RachelDBT, 28 November 2011 - 03:16 PM.
Posted 05 December 2011 - 05:08 PM
Posted 10 December 2011 - 12:43 PM
I don't think eels would thrive in a small pond and would eventually need to get to salt water. Perch and sunfish can co-habitate with our turles and a few could survive in a small turlle pond, but, depending on the pond size, not too many. I've kept a few sunfish in my larger tanks and my ponds with my painteds, maps, and musks, but the fish get big and become very aggressive at getting to the food first. If you feed turtles in a separate container it wouldn't be too bad.
I don't worry about the mussels breeding. They are part of the filter system / process and eventually food just like feeder fish. I do isolate the mussels in a separate tank for a week to 10 days with an anti-fungal (Pimafix) and an anti-biotic (Kordon's Ich Attach - Napthoquinone). I don't know that this adds any value but It makes me feel like I've made the effort to reduce outside parasites and it doesn't seem to harm either the mussels or the turtles once I put the mussels in the turtle tanks / ponds.
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